JANUARY SOIREE: WINES OF THE SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS
The Santa Cruz Mountains has been recognized as a premium wine producing region since the late 1800's when local wine growers first began to win acclaim for their wines in national and international competitions. Few of these original wineries survived prohibition, but many new wineries have developed since the 1940's.
The Santa Cruz Mountains Viticultural Appellation became federally recognized almost 30 years ago, one of the first American Viticultural Areas to be defined by geophysical and climatic factors. The appellation encompasses the Santa Cruz Mountain range, from Half Moon Bay in the north, to Mount Madonna in the south. The east and west boundaries are defined by elevation, extending down to 800 feet in the east and 400 feet in the west.
The number of wineries and the acreage planted in the Santa Cruz Mountains has increased dramatically in recent years as the area has become recognized as a unique grape-growing region. The individual microclimates, marine influence, mountain terrain, distinctive soils, and low crop levels, all contribute to the production of intensely concentrated fruit.
There are now over 75 small, family-owned wineries in the region. The small size of these operations allows the winemakers the opportunity to handcraft their wines and to maximize the potential of the grapes. The same spirit of innovation,independence, and determination that distinguished the great winemakers of the 19th century lives on today
We were quite fortunate to prevail on five vintners to join our meet-up members for a hybird walk-around/taste-off following their afternoon trade tasting. "Mountain Man" Jerold O'Brien who launched his Silver Mountain winery 30 years ago when there were just 17 wineries in the appellation poured a few older vintages, along with a more recent Pinot. Well received as you can see below (the Alloy is our Best Value of the Tasting wine).
In addition to old friends, we do like to focus on the new kids on the block. Katy Lovell has made wine for a number of years in Livermore (Rios-Lovell Estate Winery) and only recently moved to Santa Cruz where she has created a whole new winery, Poetic Cellars, in Soquel. Two of the wines she brought by were produced from the vineyards she still owns in what is now call the San Francisco Bay.
While the grapes for their Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese are grown near the town of La Honda, west of Skyline Road in Woodside, the La Honda Winery and tasting room are located in the industrial area of Redwood City near 101. Once on the other side of the tilt up wall, however, you think you are back in pastoral wine country. Co-owner Ken Wornick started as a geologist and only recently morphed into a winemaker for Career 2.0
Nick Guerrero, Managing Partner of Vine Hill Winery was accompanied by his California Sales Manager Darlene de la Cerna. Vine Hill is situated in the historic grape growing area of Santa Cruz that goes back to1867. Purchased a century later by by Pinot master Dr.David Bruce who then sold it to Ken Burnap in 1974 for what became the site of Jerry Mead's favorite winery, the illustrious Santa Cruz Mountains Vineyard (Ken was the chief architect of the Santa Cruz Mountain AVA formed in1981).
Bob and Judy Brassfield, with son Brandon, brought their much medaled 2006 Pinot Noir and recently released 2007, which came out on top in our mini competition, clearing the Excellent bar. Heart O' The Mountain, above Scotts Valley, was established and named by California pioneer Pierre Cornwall in 1881. Between the years 1940 and 1974 the 156 property was owned by director Alfred Hitchcock.
The field was rounded out by vino from Cooper Garrod and Mount Eden. Of the 45+ who attended, 18 members participated in the rating exercise,10 in the ranking of the wines being poured using the our evaluation system:
5 Stars (95+) LOVE IT ~ EXTRAORDINARY An exceptional, ravishing wine that sets the standard against which other wines are judged
4.5 (92-94) REMARKABLE
4 (90-92) REALLY LIKE IT ~ EXCELLENT A delicious wine that balances lush fruit flavors with refinement
3.5 (87-89) VERY GOOD
3 (85-87) LIKE IT ~ GOOD A pleasing wine with varietal distinctiveness
2.5 (82-84) SATISFACTORY
2 (80-82) NEUTRAL ~ FAIR A simple quaffer for everyday drinking
1.5 (77-79) MEDIOCRE
1 (75-77) DISLIKE IT ~ DEFICIENT An inferior, innocuous, harsh or flabby wine
The results:
Cooper Garrod 2006 Chardonnay $22/19 [Winery price/Tasting price]
Citrus, green apples, pear, laid back, more stone than fruit, chabilis-esque
Group average Really Like it/E or above 1st, 2nd, 3rd
3.0 85 G 2/11 'ballots' 0/0/0
Cooper Garrod 2006 Cabernet Franc Francville Vineyard $24/20
Smooth, easy drinking for a Cab Franc, tobacco, excellent QPR, very drinkable now, fruit somewhat restrained giving it a generic quality, food friendly wine
3.58 88 G/VG 3/12 0/0/0
Cooper Garrod 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon $28/24
Simple-insufficient varietal character, short finish,straight ahead wine, plum, slightly tart
3.12 85 G 4/12 0/0/0
Heart O' The Mountain 2006Pinot Noir Estate $48/48
Nice dark purple, cranberry, a little hot, very nice, smooth-easy to drink, crowd pleaser, slight funk on the nose, distinch nose and flavors
3.87 88 VG 10/14 1/0/2
Heart O' The Mountain 2007 Pinot Noir Estate $48/43
Brighter than the 06, young, tighter, harsher tannins-will develop-wait 5 years, less rich than 06, great, profound
4.02 90 E 12/15 1/0/0
La Honda 2006 Syrah, Santa Cruz Mountains $19/17
Heady dark fruit, short finish, Jalapeno flavor-lots of spice, light for a Syrah, blackberry, chocolate, licorice
3.20 86 G 3/15 0/2/0
La Honda 2006 Super Tuscan- 54% Cab/43% Sangiovese Estate $26/22
Strong cherries, a little alcoholic, dry, lots of tannins, should be better in 3 years, full body
3.31 87 G/VG 4/15 1/0/2
La Honda 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Lonehawk Vineyard $43.50/37
3.66 88 VG 7/16 0/3/0
Mount Eden 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate $48/48
Great nose-but goes away on the palate because of youth, green peppercorn, cassis, currents, needs much more time to tame tannins
3.26 86 G/VG 4/13 0/0/0
Mount Eden 2007 Saratoga Cuvée Chardonnay $26/26
Decent complexity, lively, light but full bodied, wonderful fruit, a bit of butter (vanillin), easy ending, very approachable, though rich-good food wine
3.54 88 G/VG 4/10 0/0/0
Poetic Cellars 2007 Chardonnay Chestnut Hill Vineyard $24/19
Great personality & complexity, buttery, light oak flavor,excellent clarity and grip
3.63 88 VG 4/11 0/0/0
Poetic Cellars 2006 Mourvedre Muse Vineyard SF Bay $28/23
Dark cherry, nice acidity, long finish, light on the nose, full body-but palate pleasing--not too strong, a bit heavy on the oak, love this, beautiful, rich fruit, fantastic
3.73 88 VG/E 6/15 1/0/1
Poetic Cellars 2005 Petite Sirah Pentameter Vineyard SF Bay $26/22
Very berry, dark fruit, dark cherry, jammy, plum, blueberry, very nice nose, amazing, rich, less robust than many
3.87 89 VG/E 10/16 0/2/0
Silver Mountain 2002 Alloy Bordeaux blend $28/20
Raspberry, jam, complex, intriguing development on the palate, very nice, terrific-especially for the price, supple with finesse
3.69 87 VG 8/16 1/3/2
Silver Mountain 2005Syrah Wiedeman Vineyard $28/20
Great! Very traditional Syrah flavors, cherry smoked meats,black fruit, well rounded, balanced, stylish, mild tannins
3.78 88 VG/E 7/13 1/0/1
Silver Mountain 2006 PinotNoir Mums Vineyard $38/30
Wow! Yum! Best Pinot of the night, smooth, fruity, tasty,complex back, beautiful nose, flavor doesn't quite follow through, spicy earthy-mushrooms,
3.8 89 VG/E 7/16 3/0/0
Vine Hill 2007 Pinot Noir Santa Cruz Mountains $30/27
Bright cherry, lingering finish, dry, tart, youthful--will grow richer, light on the nose, nice, very pleasant, more Burgundian in approach
3.85 89 VG/E 6/14 0/0/1
Cumbre 2007 Pinot Noir Barrel 31 Santa Cruz Mountains $60/55 [Vine Hill label]
Rich ripe cherry fruit, long finish, lighter/sweeter-easier to drink, very nice-#1, great, love this, pepper, some funk (which is to my liking), clearly a rising star
3.95 90 E 9/15 0/0/1
NOVEMBER TASTE OFF
Wines of Israel
King George Hotel, SF
November 21, 2009
Today there are more than 150 boutique wineries in Israel making excellent wine, both kosher and non kosher--a distinction without any taste difference--and mostly dry French varieties. There is no better way to try the best wines of Israel, and learn about Israeli wine, history, and people, short of going to the country itself, than by learning from the principals of importer Israel Wine Company. They brought some of the highest quality wines from the most respected producers.
The first Biblical mention of wine in the Holy Land is from Genesis 9, 20-21, where it says that Noah began to farm the Land of Israel and planted a vineyard. From that time, wine has been an important part of the Land of Israel and of all of the religious traditions that developed in the Holy Land. It's quite thrilling to be able to taste fine wines from Galilee and the Jerusalem circle.
The planting of vineyards and winemaking has historical significance in the building of modern day Israel. As Jews flocked to Israel beginning in the late nineteenth century and began to settle the land, the planting of vineyards was an important symbolic and agricultural development that helped whole communities build a sustainable way of life in the new Israel.
Ari Erle, founder of the Israel Wine Company and international winemaking consultant led our discussion. Ari has lived and made wine in both Napa Valley and Israel. He has worked at several wineries in the Napa Valley, such as Colgin Estates, Clos Du Val and currently O'Shaughnessy Estate Winery, and maintains a home in Israel where he also makes wine
Ari has uncovered the best releases in Israel by visiting wineries. After he determines which wines are worth sampling, Ari conducts a blind tasting back in the U.S. against Napa Valley wines with a panel of Napa Valley winemakers. If Ari and the panel choose an Israeli wine, it is then added to the Israel Wine Company list and their blind tasting notes are added to the description of the wine.
20 members of the Bay Area Wine Society made their own evaluation. Here are the results using this score card:
4.5 (92-94) REMARKABLE
4 (90-92) REALLY LIKE IT ~ EXCELLENT A delicious wine that balances lush fruit flavors with refinement
3.5 (87-89) VERY GOOD
3 (85-87) LIKE IT ~ GOOD A pleasing wine with varietal distinctiveness
2.5 (82-84) SATISFACTORY
2 (80-82) NEUTRAL ~ FAIR A simple quaffer for everyday drinking
1.5 (77-79) MEDIOCRE
1 (75-77) DISLIKE IT ~ DEFICIENT An inferior, innocuous, harsh or flabby wine
| Average Rating | VG or above | E or above | 1st, 2nd, 3rd Ranking | ||||
| Pelter 2005 Unwooded Chardonnay | 3.15 | 86 | G | 8/19 | 5/19 | 1,1,2,1,3,3 | |
| Golan $24.50 suggested retail/ $20 BAWS discount |
Platinumin color, peach,citrus, melon, flint immediately after opening, acidity and a more pleasingfinish kicking in after some breathing, crispacid, long and complex finish,round texture, seemed like an Old World Viognier
| Somek 2005 Merlot, Sharon | 3.15 | 86 | G | 8/19 | 3/19 | 2,2 | |
| $30/28 |
Golden honey in color and aroma, aroma is slightly burnt, caramel, predictable, more citrusy, not overoaked, butter, very pleasant, vanilla and cloves, nice body, holding its vibrancy, beautiful taste, showing medium- to full-bodied,shifting from moment to moment from grapefruit and nectarine to pineapple and lemon peel and finally to orange curd, all on a crisp mineral-rich background, vibrant and lively with a long, lightly oaky and lemon blossom finish, more like a Chenin Blanc.
| Somek 2005 Chardonnay, Sharon | 2.74 | 83 | S/G | 5/19 | 3/19 | 3 | |
| $30/28 |
Noticeable citrus and citrus flowers, then pears,almonds andfigs and closing on a near-sweet note, bright golden color with anintriguingnose of apricot and a touch of honey, medium-bodied withoutoo much oak. The fruitflavors dominated, including some citrus and apricot butwith traces of nuttyflavors. It is a crisp wine that only has 12.4% alcohol anda moderately long finish.
| Erle 2007 Carignan, Sharon | 3 | 85 | G | 12/20 | 6/20 | 2,2,3 | |
| $28/26 |
Light and straightforward,without much depth or concentration, but it manages to feel relatively full onthe first attack. Modest structure, and there is acertain iodine note on thefinish. This is pleasant enough for its intended purpose—a light, easy drinkingwine.
| Erle 2007 Merlot, Sharon | 3.35 | 87 | G/VG | 11/20 | 6/20 | 3,2,1 | |
| $28/26 |
10%Argaman—an Israeli-developed hybrid that crosses Carignan andSousao (fromPortugal). Pleasing and pure, this nicely balanced young Merlot hasa softtexture, some grapiness and ripe tannins. It has a certain brightnessaroundthe edges that makes it a little lively. It is not particularly deep orlong,but it is a tasty and encouraging early release that is a pleasure todrink.
| Somek 2005 Merlot, Sharon | 3.15 | 86 | G | 8/19 | 3/19 | 2,2 | |
| $30/28 |
Inky purple, full-bodied and intenselyconcentrated withfirm tannins and generous vanilla and spices from its 20months in barrel.Despite its power, well balanced, with black currants,blackberries and blackcherry fruits with a moderately-long and round finish.
| Ella Valley 2003 Merlot, Judean Hills | 3.35 | 87 | G/VG | 12/20 | 6/20 | 2,2,3,2 | |
| $34/30 |
Opens with a hint of dusty wood and near-sweet tannins. A full-bodied and firm Merlot showing round and well balanced, the tannins complemented nicely by light spicyoak. On the nose and palate generous blackberry, currant,, wild berry and exotic spices complemented nicely by notes of minerals and light toasty oak..
| Yaffo 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, | 3.35 | 87 | G/VG | 11/20 | 7/20 | 1,3,3 | |
| Judean Hills $24/21 |
Dark garnet, medium-bodied, with supple tannins and spicy plum, wild berry and currant fruits, opening to reveal hints of incenseand sage. tannins rise on the finish along with a generous mineral hint, smokey wood, lingers nicely.
| Clos de Gat, 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon | 3.85 |